REFLECTIVE JOURNAL: January 2015

Juxtaposed/ Structure and Shape: Design Possibilities

I began the design process by creating a mind map of all my ideas. I did this so I could then see how I could combine some of these ideas to design a variety of garments. I then took these ideas and transferred them into designs through drawing and annotation. I find this the easiest way to generate and assemble my ideas. I really enjoyed this process, especially as it's the first time I've ever designed clothes before. For these I either worked on top of figure templates or copied them in a sketch but I now feel like I know the proportions well enough to sketch the figure myself.

Juxtaposed/ Structure and Shape

After researching both themes I decided to look at garments that incorporate both ideas to inspire me further. I found most designers I've looked at used structure and shape in their garments to create a juxtaposition. The juxtapositions in the garments below are created through the contrasting fabrics or heavy fabric with bare skin (delicate/structured).

Giambattista Vali

Heavy structured leather top/ delicate white lace

Iris Van Herpen SS13

Violent shards/ vulnerable bare back

Balmain SS15

Structured, tailored suit/ exposed flesh

Alexander McQueen

Delicate lace/ tailoring

Fragile embellishment/ structured shoulder and heavy collar

Jean Paul Gautier

Sheer fabric/ armour style corset

Yohji Yamamoto

Structured opaque jacket/ sheer shirt

Theory FW 14

Tailoring/ draping

Juxtaposed: Primary Research Walk

As part of the research period one of our tasks was to collect primary research. We were told to go on a research walk and find examples of juxtaposition in the world around us. At first I was doubtful as I wasn't sure I'd be able to find that many accidental unexpected combinations on a walk around where I live, however I was very surprised by what I was able to find. It taught me that there's more around us that you expect and inspiration can come from anywhere.

The above two images are of an unexpected array of colour from a petrol spillage on usually dull grey concrete.

Juxtaposition of colourful flowers in unexpected places.

Juxtaposition of colour and texture.

Juxtaposition of blooming flower amongst dead flowers

Juxtaposition of man made and natural

Juxtaposition of textures

Juxtaposition of colour from wear and tear on grey patio slabs

Juxtaposition of metal amongst leaves. Interesting colour combination

Juxtaposition of texture between two trees

Juxtaposition of pattern, texture and colour on different parts of the concrete

Juxtaposed: Structure and Shape

After completing the initial juxtaposition research period, we then moved into phase two which was to choose an additional theme to research. The options were: Androgyny, Structure and Shape, Interior/Exterior and Colour & Perception. After considering all the options I decided to look into Structure and Shape. I made this decision as I realised a lot of the garments I had looked at in my initial research used structure and shape to create their juxtapositions. About the theme of Structure and Shape the brief stated:

'Look at historical and contemporary styling and details including fashion garments, textures and silhouettes. Look at how shape is altered on the body to emphasise different parts, head, neck, shoulders, waist and hips. Also look at how garments are structured and how they can give structure to body shapes for example, corsets and tailored garments.'

I began by doing some initial research into structure and shape in fashion to see how other designers have explored the theme.

Gareth Pugh

Gautier

Donna Karen AW 12

Issey Miyake SS14

Alexander McQueen SS09

Maison Martin Mariela

Gautier

Jean Paul Gautier

After looking at various garments I decided to look at the historical silhouette. I wanted to explore how various body parts have been accentuated through the fashion of the time and how this changed the silhouette. In particular I looked at the corset and the bustle and explored how these two items changed the silhouette and how they are still relevant today. For example, the corset suppressed the waist and stomach, creating an hour glass type silhouette. Today a tiny waist is still desirable and corsets are still worn but just not to the same extremes - nowadays you can buy sportswear type corsets for 'waist training'. Similarly the bustle accentuated the behind, exaggerating the hour glass figure further. Today large behinds are also desirable, influenced by the likes of Kim Kardashian. However I also wanted to look at times where the silhouette was totally different, for example the 1920s. In this era a 'boy' like silhouette, with a small bust and behind, being desirable. This is embodied in the flapper dress which was a straight down, rectangular dress that didn't attempt to accentuate any feminine curves. I feel this historical research helped me to see how the theme of structure and shape has influenced fashion in the past, and how it's still relevant today. It's also shown me what, in terms of this theme, has been done before and this will help me be innovative when coming up with me own design ideas.

Juxtaposed: Initial Thoughts and Research

When I first received the brief I thought it was a very interesting starting point. The brief stated that we need to have a final outcome, and I was completely unsure as to what that would be. As having only recently begun studying fashion and textiles, I'm unsure as to whether I want to go into fashion, interiors, print etc. The initial research period really helped with my direction on the project as it helped me discover what area peaks my interest the most.

I began by doing some independent research and immediately found myself looking at juxtaposition in fashion. I found it very interesting looking at how various designers had explored this theme, either consciously or by accident, through the use of shape, fabric, colour and structure.

We were then given a research task to find examples of juxtapositions in various areas. The first one I received was to find examples of juxtaposition in nature on the internet. At first I wasn't thrilled by this area but after doing some research I found myself very intrigued by the images I discovered.

Juxtaposition between natural and manmade. I found the contrasting textures here particularly interesting.

The two images above show a juxtaposition between temperatures. Cactus' are usually thought of to be found in hot climates yet here they are covered in freezing snow.

These two images show a juxtaposition between the natural and man made. I especially enjoy the contrasting colours - the silver and black metal, white panels, compared to the crisp green of the leaves.

The second task I was given was to look at juxtaposition in sculpture. I found some extremely interesting images from this research.

Ramon Todo

Juxtaposition between rough opaque stone and smooth transparent glass.

MyenongBeom Kim

Juxtaposition between the natural and man made. Interesting placement of something that shouldn't be there.

Lei Xue

Juxtaposition between a tin can thats usually thrown out as 'rubbish' created out of fragile china adorned with an intricate pattern.

Juxtaposition between natural and man made.

Roxy Paine

Juxtaposition between a man made material moulded into looking like something natural.

Jeppe Hein

Juxtaposition between fire and water. The two, in a scientific sense, should not be put together.

Our next task was to then look at juxtaposition in an area we are interested in. I therefore went back to looking at fashion as I had seen others had found some very exciting examples.